Milia under the eyes: All you need to know
Clogged pores and hormonal acne are common skin issues with numerous targeted products and treatments. But dealing with milia under the eyes, also known as "milk spots", is less straightforward. There seems to be no specific "anti-milia solution" product yet, making it more complex to handle than regular breakouts. Three skin experts share tips on preventing and getting rid of milia, including at-home and in-office methods.
What is milia?
Milia, or milium cysts, are small, pearly white or yellow bumps often mistaken for whiteheads under the eyes. Dr. Michele Green, a dermatologist in New York City, explains that they form due to a buildup of dead skin cells, keratin, and sebum trapped beneath the skin surface. They can be extracted and don't require acne medication. They don't always occur in clusters and can be benign. Dr. Shari Sperling, a dermatologist in Florham Park, New Jersey, says they can occur alone or in multiple and can appear on the face and other areas. The white, dome-shaped appearance distinguishes them from conditions like keratosis pilaris.
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What causes milia under the eyes?
There are different types of milia. Primary milia, the most common apart from neonatal or congenital milia, develops spontaneously in healthy skin without a clear cause. Secondary or traumatic milia can result from skin damage like burns, sun damage, resurfacing procedures, medication reactions, or heavy skincare products. A form of milia has even been reported within a tattoo. Rarer forms like milia en plaque and multiple eruptive milia also exist.
Why does milia often occur around the eyes?
Dr. Ava Shamban theorizes that the skin around the eyes might be the reason. It could be due to the tiny glands. Also, since we avoid the eyes with some cleansers and products, this area, with thinner and more delicate skin, might not be properly cleansed or exfoliated. Celebrity aesthetician Renée Rouleau noticed an increase in milia among smokers. Compared to other eye-area conditions like zits or styes, milia is usually painless and not itchy. It's also different from chalazion.
How long do milia last?
Sometimes milia go away on their own, but they can last for years. In a 2016 study, a woman had the same milia for a decade. If you have a milia breakout, you can wear makeup but make sure to wash it off thoroughly every day.
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Who can get milia?
Newborn babies and infants are prone to milia, but anyone can get it regardless of skin type or age. It can run in families. The rare milia en plaque type mainly affects middle-aged women.
How can you prevent milia under the eyes?
Primary milia can be mysterious, but if it becomes a frequent problem, consider certain steps. Preventing milia under the eyes depends on your skincare routine. Be diligent, have a good cleansing routine, and if you wear makeup, especially heavy eye makeup, consider double cleansing.
What are the best products to get rid of milia?
For milia removal, be careful with the products you use. Dr. Green suggests a lightweight, lipid-free cleanser like La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Facial Cleanser. Use a toner with alpha hydroxy, salicylic, or glycolic acid. Finish with a lightweight moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Dr. Sperling recommends over-the-counter glycolic cleansers like Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Cleanser Daily Foaming Wash or Ole Henriksen Find Your Balance Cleanser. Avoid products with mineral oil and petroleum. Add targeted exfoliating treatments and use topical retinoids to prevent milia. Keep your glasses clean.
In-office treatments for milia
Although milia is generally harmless, if you're unhappy with its appearance, a dermatologist can help. They can safely extract milia using a small lancet or use other treatments like electrodessication or cryotherapy.
At-home treatments for milia under the eyes
For at-home remedies, some swear by natural methods like rosewater and honey. But professional extraction is best. Dr. Sperling suggests steaming and gentle exfoliation, but never try to remove milia yourself as it can cause skin damage and scarring.
